BLOG BY: Ritchie Wimmer

Owner, Builder, Driver


In 2007, I decided to build a race car.


After months of researching and searching for the right starting point, I found a rusted tub of a sports car for $50! She had a clear title, non-op status, was stripped of her dignity and left for dead! No engine, no transmission, no interior.


My goal was to build a car from the ground up...a true “nut & bolt” restoration. Not like a car you see at great concours event...but a car built with HEART & PURPOSE. A car not to be tucked away in some climate controlled garage...but DRIVEN! Better yet...driven at white-knuckle speeds! Pushing the limits while defying the LAWS OF PHYSICS!


This Miata is driven on the street, raced on a track, maintained & modified by its owner, and in my opinion, represents a TRUE HOT ROD! Resurrected from the grave to pursue FLAT-OUT speed...


...even if it's “just” a little Miata :-)



* 1991 Mazda Miata

* MAX HP: 240 HP - 221 ft/lbs TORQUE @ 18psi

* COMP HP: 202 HP - 185 ft/lbs TORQUE @ 13psi

* 1.6L Turbocharged Mazda Miata DOHC

* 4 cylinder (Mazda stock "factory" internals)

* Stand-alone Engine Management System

* 6 speed Mazda Transmission

* Torsen Limited Slip with 4.10 gears

* 8 lb Aluminum Flywheel

* 6 Puck Racing Clutch

* Custom Coilover Setup with '99 Shock Hats

* 800/500 lb/in Springs

* 15x9 wheels +36mm (13.4lbs)

* 225-50/15 tires

* DRY WEIGHT: 2111 lbs

* COMP WEIGHT: 2265 lbs

September 6th, 2014


MIATAS @ MRLS 2014 - 25th Anniversary of the Miata


February 11th, 2012


MIATA CHALLENGE 2012 - Round 2


January 30th, 2011


TRACK DEBUT! The Racer's first time on track competing Race #1 of the 2011 Miata Challenge at Buttonwillow Raceway Park, California.


April 8th, 2008




We are now moved into our new workspace at the Nipomo Swap Meet!


After getting settled in I began painting the chassis. Gloss black appliance paint (in a rattle can) was used to coat the unibody, roll cage, and underside. Appliance paint was chosen because of its hardness, cheapness, and is the paint of choice for many racers painting surfaces like this.


January 6th, 2008




In order for a roll cage to be strong and not punch straight through the unibody sheet metal during an accident, roll cage landing plates must be installed.


The landing plates are designed to re-enforce the unibody where the cage meets it. At each point where the cage is attached to the body, a landing plate is installed.


The first step is to remove all paint and glue from the area where the landing plate is to be installed.


Then the landing plates are test fitted and spot welded in place. Once all the landing plates are spotted into their future home, the roll cage tubes are test fitted. If all looks good, then the plates are fully welded into place.


After welding is completed, the plates are painted to prevent rust. The paint can easily be removed again when the roll cage is welded to the landing plates.